She/They

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Joined 1 year ago
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Cake day: June 30th, 2023

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  • Like others, USB-PD is amazing. My monitor has 90W which is plenty for my laptops. Gaming laptop, not so much. The only device I have that isn’t USBC/Thunderbolt is the damn mouse. I rarely ever need a USB A port for anything other than charging. Even my flash drives are all USBC.

    I have been able to use 1 charger for almost everything for several years now. Sometimes I have a finicky device that doesn’t like the high wattage PD chargers and will only trickle charge, but work fine with my other smaller charger. The GaN chargers are nice and compact. I break USBC cables a lot less often, but that is because I am a walking disaster most of the time. I would break micro USB cables constantly, or rip the ports to pieces.

    One note though on USBC ports on a monitor. Beware using the really really stiff cables on ports that are positioned where the cable would be parallel to the table instead of the port pointing down. That port will definitely wear out or break entirely from the constant downward force and lack of support of the cable in the port. This is especially true if you use a monitor arm and the cable gets moved. Seen this on both Samsung and LG. My Dell points downward. I really like the pro PS5 controllers as it comes with a little cage that holds the USBC cable in place and protects the port from exactly that scenario. These monitors absolutely need something like that, especially with how expensive they are.



  • Fuck. I am so sorry. Being that age and having to take care of everything is just rough. All the death certificates, cancelling services, funeral, house, car, and a million other details while you are still coming to terms that they are just gone. I just sort of went on autopilot and then spent the next 2 years a total complete mess. I am 37 now and it still fucking hurts.

    The one dumb thing that helped me grieve was to just talk to him. I used to call my dad everyday on my 25 minute drive home to work. So, I would pretend he was in the car with me and I would just talk to him.

    All I can say is cherish the few mementos you really care about and don’t drive yourself insane on trying to hold on to every item they owned. Scan pictures. Get help and talk to someone. Get someone removed from the situation to help you clean things out. I paid a random handyman a friend had around a couple hundred dollars to just take care of the parts I couldn’t handle (dead body things…) and donated a bunch of items that flat out had no value to me.






  • 🐍🩶🐢@lemmy.worldtoMemes@lemmy.ml2 life pro tips in one meme!
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    3 months ago

    Ok. Let’s do this! If you have a 4 cup pyrex/microwavable measuring cup, it is much easier.

    • Sauce pan with a lid. Nonstick is fine.
    • 2 cups of rice using dry measuring cup
    • 3 cups of water
    • Salt if using unsalted butter
    • 2 tablespoons of butter
    1. Put empty pan on stove and set heat to medium-high. If these are steel pans, stick to medium. Go towards high if nonstick as it takes a bit to heat up.
    2. Put water and butter in microwavable cup and throw it in the microwave until it starts to simmer, maybe 3 minutes? Depends on microwave and dish.
    3. While you are waiting on microwave, put dry rice in pan and gently stir/fold. They will start to turn white, but don’t let them burn. If you need to take the pan off and turn the heat down, do it. We are just preheating the rice and pan up. Add salt if needed.
    4. Get ready. As soon as that water is hot enough to boil or close to, take it out, pour it in the pan. It will be violent.
    5. Do a quick stir, throw the lid on, and turn the heat down to the lowest setting. The water should fully cover the rice.
    6. Walk away. The bottom might toast a little, but that is fine as long as it doesn’t full on burn.

    After 20 minutes or so, you can do a real quick check and if it looks kind of wet, throw the lid back on and wait.

    At this point, you should have perfectly acceptable rice. Take the lid off, stir the rice with a more folding motion to let it steam any additional moisture out.





  • I had a friend do this. It was utter misery for over a year. Most of his teeth were shattered, so he had to wait for a lot of fragments to expel naturally.

    Do not discount pain management that involves opioids. Not saying to use them for weeks nor do I know your personality for bad habits, but if it gets bad please don’t suffer for no reason. Getting ibuprofen or acetaminophen with low dose codine may be a good middle ground and is even available over the counter in some countries. Extended pain is mentally exhausting and isn’t worth the hit on your mental health.

    f you are struggling taking pills, get liquid ibuprofen. Sometimes you can get a chemist to make a suspension for you, otherwise get childrens. I do that if my throat gets too infected and I am unable to swallow. Honestly, it works far better than the pills and I needed a lot less.

    Best thing is to be honest with your doctors, even if you do not want anything stronger. Be sure to communicate any discomfort due to ill fitting dentures. Ask questions if anything unexpected comes up. My friend’s doctor was super shitty and didn’t even tell him about all of the left over fragments that still had to come out on their own.



  • I think this view is a little short sighted. I am glad that you don’t seem picky about your peripherals, but they are very important to others. As someone with a disability, if my mouse didn’t work on Linux, I wouldn’t even bother trying. I have spent a lot of money on peripherals and them working in Mac and Windows, but not Linux would be utterly rage inducing. It is irritating enough that I can’t adjust the dpi in Linux, but it is at least usable. I am still salty that every single pair of headphones I own use proprietary codecs that are not supported.

    I absolutely do not blame anyone for not using Linux if their peripherals do not work. I get that it is the “fault” of proprietary drivers. Unfortunately, some devices are not popular enough or too difficult for someone in the Linux community to want to work on it. I don’t blame the community either. However, telling someone they can’t use their mouse or keyboard the way it was intended isn’t going to convince anyone to use Linux.

    My point is, hardware costs money, is a physical device that you touch for hours at a time, and is configured to make your life easier. Tactile and ergonomic comfort is important. Macros, lights, and dpi settings are important to some people. For me, it is just dpi and smooth scrolling. Not everyone is happy with a cheap mouse and keyboard or wants to throw perfectly functional electronics in the bin.


  • UL certification can mean different things, depending on the product and type of mark. It also isn’t that expensive to get UL listed as it isn’t like every single item you produce is tested. Each product you design is tested, but not each item you produce.

    There are 3/4 types. UL listed, UL recognized, and UL classified. Certified is newer and more stringent.

    • Recognized is mostly for machinery and components within machinery. It isn’t terribly difficult to get, but annoying. I have dealt with this type as we design and build electrical panels. Usually you hand the design to a panel builder and they will get it certified before delivery.
    • Listed is for products and appliances, and is fully tested for safety. This applies to most consumer electronics.
    • Certified Enhanced is also for products, and you can read up on it here: https://www.ul.com/news/qa-uls-enhanced-certification-mark
    • Classified is for products and is half ass tested. All it means is that some requirements for UL were tested and passed, but not all.

    If a product is Classified by UL, this can mean its testing meets the particular requirements for a single test with a published result, but has nothing to do with all the other tests that may form part of a Standard (i.e., UL 181).

    As for pricing for UL listed, it can be just a few grand for a single product. Not much when you are selling thousands. I am sure Classified is even cheaper. I wonder how many of these cheap ass lamps say Classified.




  • We had a student run server for piracy at my University to get copied textbooks from, but even then we had to sometimes look elsewhere. I often couldn’t afford books and not all professors allowed the cheaper used previous editions.

    Science textbooks were the worst with their stupid fucking online code bullshit so we could do homework. They even made it where you could buy just the code, which was something like $70. Still better than 300+, but JFC. Having to spend over $1000 for books that you are only going to use for 10 weeks was nuts.

    The last saving grace we had is all textbooks were required to have at least one copy in the library that could not be checked out/removed. You could photocopy the homework pages that way. If your classmates were nice, they would let you borrow theirs to copy any pages too. You could also buy your textbook, copy what you needed, and return it within the return window.